6- Week Postiza Keep
Submitted by Jim Fulton
As everyone should know by now , you cannot make a rooster a better fighter, but in the competition for the naked heel , postiza , and quarto, stamina and endurance play a big role, and this keep is designed for that goal. This keep takes 6 weeks total, and includes a 1 week rest for the last week before the fight. As an example I will give the dates to work, according to an upcoming fight in May. The things you will need for this keep are : 2 pairs of muffs, some thin medical tape (the cloth kind), a spray bottle( with water and about 2 tsp. of alcohol) for misting their feathers, some Vaseline, as good a grain mix as you can afford, and fresh water everyday.
You will be working your birds every 3rd day, with a "hard" workout every 6th day, and you will be working with 2 birds at a time. This WILL build stamina in your roosters, AND yourself. I will give a detailed description of the terms Run, Flirts, and Trim out, after the dates and routines. Before each " hard " workout you will need to put on their muffs, mist their feathers (misting keeps their feathers from breaking as easy), and tearing off a piece off the medical tape about 1/4 in. wide and about 5 in. long, you will need to tape their bills. Open their beak and put your finger crossways to hold it open. Next lay one end of the tape on the inside tip of the lower bill, and wrap a small end of it under the bill to hold it then make 3 full wraps , and then close the top part of the bill on the tape and finish wrapping the whole bill. The reasons for doing this are to keep them from pulling out feathers when they spar , and it discourages them from getting a bill hold. They will be able to breath fine and about half way through, they will work it off anyway.
4/7 Sat. ~ 5 min. run ~ 40 flirts
4/10 Tue. ~ 40 flirts
4/13 Fri. ~ 10 min. run ~ 50 flirts
4/16 Mon. ~ 60 flirts
4/19 Thu. ~ 12-15 min. run ~ 60 flirts
4/22 Sun. ~ 70 flirts
4/25 Wed. ~ 15 min. run ~ 80 flirts
4/28 Sat. ~ 100 flirts " Trim out "
5/1 Tue. ~ 15 min. run ~ 100 flirts
5/4 Fri. ~ 100 flirts
5/7 Mon. ~ 20 min. run ~ 100 flirts
5/10 Thu. ~ 100 flirts
5/13 Sun. ~ 5-10 min. run ~ 100 flirts
Rest For One Week
5/19 Sat. ~ Fight Day !
After each workout Rub downward on his breast and then each leg, about 15 times. Put some Vaseline on their legs and a little on their heads and beaks. look for any "bad" spots
Run :
A run starts with allowing the 2 roosters to spar for about a min., then pick up one of the birds and " lead " the other with him. With a rooster in your hands and bending over low enough to keep the one on the ground eye level with the one in your hands, and lead him to the right, and then pass over him and move to the left, and back again for a min. then release or toss the bird a few feet away, let them "buckle" and then pick up the other bird and do the same with him for a min. Let them spar again for a min. then do it all over again. As the routines get longer (second "hard" workout) a move that you will need to work in is, passing the bird in your hands behind the one on the ground and make him turn round and round keeping his eyes on the other bird. Go round and round to the right , to make your bird spin to the right , and then go left. Do this for about 15 sec. each direction then run some more. By the time your up to a 15 min. run , you will be letting them actually spar for 2 to 3 min. between runs.
Flirts :
Flirts are similar to most except as you hold the bird with both hands, facing away from you, place your thumbs on his back, by his tail, and holding him 2-3 foot off the floor, push your thumbs down and "flick" him out of your hands. This will cause him to kick his legs forward and flap aggressively to regain his balance . Pick him up quickly and do it again. The second kind of flirt is opposite. Holding his breast in one hand , and placing your other hand under his tail or vent, move your hand up quickly from his vent(flick) and releasing his breast at the same time, causing him the sensation of falling forward, and making him "work" to regain balance. Do a equal amount of both ( example. 40 Flirts - 20 forward flirts + 20 reverse flirts)
Trim Out :
If you have seen Cuban or Spanish birds fight before , you might have noticed that it looks like their legs and backs are shaved. This is to aid in cooling, and the feathers are actually cut off with scissors, from the legs, abdomen and vent, lower part of the breast, and the back area up to the hackles. The hackles are sometimes trimmed also
Feeding :
Feed all they can eat at a time. On work days , don't feed at all until after the work . Twice a week put some boiled egg into their regular feed. The last feeding on Friday before the fight, mix the feed with some honey and cut in half with "Grape Nuts" or Granola. On fight day, take a banana with you and after the fight, clean him up real good , and take him were he can eat and just let him have some banana( if he's not beat up too bad).
Rest :
Rest is just as important as the workout ( for you and your roosters). Avoid the temptation to work or play with them on the rest week . If you have a hen with them ?, remove it a few days before the fight.( To make them a little more anxious ).
Well this is the keep I use, and It has served me well. You cannot go wrong if you follow it , and you will notice a marked improvement in you birds on fight day
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The Charlie Carr Modern Knife and Gaff Keep
Most knife fights are decided in a few seconds after the rooster leaves your hand.
Endurance and stamina play no part in this type of fight. Cutting ability,
aggressiveness, sense, health, and speed are what it takes to win quick, which is
what you want to do. Mental condition is 80% of condition is a well fed knife or gaff
cock.
He must have his mind on absolutely nothing but the other rooster.
This mental condition is achieved by a good week of pre-keep in which the roosters
are gentled and acquainted slowly with their new surroundings.
You may think when you follow this keep you are not really conditioning the roosters
you are partly right because what we are trying to do is get the rooster ready to
fight. Without losing any of his natural abilities, especially his cutting ability.
In conditioning for the gaff or short knife the keep is the same except during the work
week you may want to fly the rooster on the work board: or move him more times.
Start with 5 flys and work up to 15. Hold the rooster lower that the board: about 3
feet out and release him at the board. This is optional, I think it's more for you than
the rooster. Most people quit hand working roosters years ago, even for the gaff. Any
keep or video you see with board work is dated to say the least.
Facilities and Equipment Needed
Cockhouse: About 15' X 20' with high ceiling, well ventilated, but no drafts, stalls
about 2 square.
Flypens: Roost poles about 4' high off the ground, pens about 5' wide X 8' long X 8'
high use black felt tar paper on the floor with 4" of corn shucks as litter.
Feed cups: Small, plastic 2 oz. feed measure.
Stringwalks: 7' long in grass, huts 4' high.
Drop-out pens: 4' diameter and 4' high, put some loose leaves.
Rectangular Pens: 4' X 6' X 4', use horse manure as litter.
Pens: 4' X 4' put on the grass. Have a pullet by each one.
Acquaint roosters with all stalls and pens they are going to be in.
Feed twice a day - start with 2oz. feed per feeding. Feed dry in morning. Wet with
about 1 ounce of buttermilk at night.
Give 1 - teaspoon of chopped vegetables and fruits at noon each day of entire 3
week keep up to Wednesday of the third week.
The pre-keep is mainly for mental conditioning.
Spar everyday in pre-keep, just 2 buckles. Also tease in and off pens.
Feed
Morning feed: 50% laying pellets (18%)
25% Cracked corn
5% Wheat
5% Barley
5% Dry Blue Ribbon dog food (21%)
5% Calf manna
5% Oat groats
Night Feed: 75% above mixture 25% Cooked pearl barley and buttermilk
Feeding and Conditioning Procedure
At 7 am go to the cockhouse and get the cocks from the stalls where you put them
the night before. Be sure they have no feed in their craw, then put them in the fly
pens. Throw 1 1/2oz of the morning feed on the litter. When the cocks are taken from
the fly pens, check the pen to see if all the feed has been eaten. If not cut the
amount by 1/4oz the next morning. You can increase by the same amount if he cleans
up real quick and still acts hungry.
Leave the cocks in the fly pens for an hour then follow the morning schedule below:
8 am - 10 am ....................................Strings
10 am - 12 noon ...............................4 X 6 pens
12 noon - 2 pm .................................Round pens
2 pm - 3 pm ......................................4 X 4 pens
3 pm - 4 pm ......................................Back to fly pens
At noon feed each rooster a heaping teaspoon of chopped vegetables and fruits. (Do
this the entire keep up to Wednesday of the third week.)
At 4 pm put the roosters in the stalls and feed the night feed.
Feed 2oz per bird. If he has any in is craw in the morning, feed 1/4oz less the next
night. On
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday of the first week, put one tablespoon of redcell
vitamins per six cocks on night feed.
On Tuesday and Thursday of the first week put one tablespoon of desicated liver per
six cocks on night feed. Starting Sunday, the 7th day of the third week, change the
moving schedule to below:
Monday: Move 4 times.
Tuesday: Move 3 times.
Wednesday: Move 2 times.
Thursday: Move 1 time.
Friday: Rest day.
Monday of the third week put the roosters in stall at 4 pm.
Tuesday put them in stalls at 3 pm.
Wednesday at 2 pm. Thursday at 1 pm. On Friday rest all day or half a day, use own
judgement. Nervous or high strung roosters require less rest.
The idea is to move the cocks less and less each day of the last week until the day
before the fight. Starting Monday of the second week, increase the amount of
cracked corn in the morning and night feed by 15% per day.
Starting on Wednesday of the second week, discontinue the vitamins at night
feeding, also discontinue the vegetables and fruits at noon. Cut feed 1/4 ounce on
Thursday morning. Cut feed 1/4 ounce more on Thursday night. Friday morning feed 1
1/2 ounce.
Point for knife: If you fight on Saturday at about noon, feed 1 teaspoon leveled of
half cracked corn and half barley wet with buttermilk on Friday night. Feed 1/4
teaspoon Saturday morning if the cock craps out very little or just "dots" early in the
morning. Keep droppings medium loose all during keep, even on fight day.
Point for gaff: On Friday night feed half a teaspoon of cracked corn and half hard
boiled egg white with a few drops of buttermilk over it.
Traveling Feed
This is going to be given in place of the night of travel. Give this feed just before you
box up and head out.
Take one box of knox plain gelatin and mix with 2 cups of water and 1/2 can (small
can) of pet milk and one tablespoon of sugar in a boiler. Stir and bring to a boil. Pour
into a pan 1" deep.
Put into refrigerator. Cut into 1" cubes and give to roosters just before you leave. If
they won't eat it, hand feed it. Use this feed when traveling long distance only. They
will not dry out and travel well. When traveling short distances, be sure there is no
feed in craw before you start.
Sparring
Once a day let the roosters buckle into each other one time and catch them
immediately. If a rooster gets hit and doesn't get to hit back he will tomorrow.
When the roosters feathers are green, which they will be until sometime in January or
February, hold a battered cock in your hand let the rooster to be sparred hit into him
once or twice a day. Hold the battered cock only one foot off the ground and offer
him straight into the cock to be sparred. Don't make your cock fly up after a cock. Bill
the cocks before you do the above.
"Remember roosters will not travel well or fight up to par when in green feathers."
"Good Luck"
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TEXAS BUTTERMILK KEEP
1. Cocks have been wormed, deloused and are at about their fighting weight.
2. Work will be 50 runs each morning, leave in pens during day, or sun coop or scratch pen several hours a day.
3. Work at night will be 30 flys, feed and water.
4. Work will be the same each day up to Friday night before Sunday fight. Start cocks working very slow, then speed the work up each day.
5. The 5th and 6th day the cocks should be gentle and working very fast.
6. Weigh cocks each day; any cocks that are losing weight give 2 tablespoons buttermilk on night feed grain. One heaping tablespoon grain mix each cock. For cocks gaining weight give two tablespoons tomato juice on night grain.
7. Morning feed will be 2 tablespoons grain mix up to Friday before fight day on Sunday.
8. Five or six days before fight day spar cocks. Set them close, spar briefly; after sparring, wash cock's head, inside mouth, legs and feet with witch hazel. No work today.
9. If you fight on Sunday, no work Friday night, just feed, water and leave in stalls.
10. During the keep, feed cocks only what they eat eagerly, rotate cocks to different pens and stalls each day.
THE POINT
11. Friday night before Sunday fight, feed one tablespoon grain mix, one tablespoon corn chops, one tablespoon buttermilk.
12. Saturday morning no work, keep cocks comfortable and quite all day. Feed 1/2 tablespoon grain mix. one tablespoon corn chops, 1/2 boiled egg white, water.
13. Saturday night the same as morning.
14. If the fight is Sunday night, feed Sunday morning; feed same as Saturday; feed early at least 2 hours before leaving for the pit.
15. If the fight is Sunday moring, no feed or water Sunday morning. If your cocks have not fought by Sunday afternoon, every 3 hours give each cock a pinch of boiled egg white and 2 or 3 pecks of a peeled apple, in hot westher also give a few dips of buttermilk. This small amount of feed will keep the cocks from becoming nervous, distressed and from going off point.
Any conditioning capsules, powders or pills can be used with this keep. Use only proven ones sold in the Journals or ones that you know are good.
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The method that I am going to write about is perhaps the most revolutionary ever introduced to cocking. I have been using it for three seasons now, and I find it to be the best thing going for a small time cocker and breeder, who for one reason or another, cannot spend the time required morning and night to go through a regular two week keep. I have to leave for work very early in the morning, and the regular two week routine, really made it hard on me, and I am sure that many of you are faced with the same problem.
A very good friend of mine, who for years conditioned and trained some great Harness Horses, gave me this method and assured me that it would work, as he had used it himself for years. When he started in the chicken business many years ago, he knew nothing of how the conditioners of that time fed their stags. So he figured to himself that he would use the same methods used to train horses, especially colts, and I know full well the fine condition he used to get on his stags. Everyone that ever saw him fight always remarked on how his stags would really go on the go-off, and if the need arose, they could really bang in the drag pit.
It wasn't until all these years have rolled by that anyone knew that his method was entirely different than anything ever used before, as fas as getting stags in shape to fight through a whole season. I thought that I would pass it on to the fraternity, and perhaps it would benefit someone like myself, who cannot stick to a morning and night routine every day for two weeks.
The secret of this method, if you want to call it that, is in laying a solid foundation of wind and endurance, that will last you through the whole fighting season.
After you have laid the foundation, you can get in on a meet anytime in the season, with only one week's notice. To do this, you simply put your stags through a one week "FIGHT TRAINING SCHEDULE" and you can fight in any pit in the country, and not worry about condition, or wether your stags will be off at the end of a regular two week method, or if you have to add weight, or take off, etc; and you won't worry if they are stiff or sore either, because you have brought them along nice and easy, slowly building wind and endurance, not flinging them on a bench for the first time in their lives, and working them up to a hundred flies and runs in two weeks, and then turning them loose. I have stags, and so has everyone else that took two weeks just to learn how tu run properly. I find that with this method, they have learned every trick at least two months before they have their first fight.
You will notice that the work involved is always done at night. In my case it is a matter of convenience. If you work other than first shift, you can do the work in the morning. You only work them three days a week. You work every other day, that is, Monday, Wednesday and Friday. This also gives you, as well as the stags the whole week-end off. Now up here, we start fighting stags about the middle of April. That means that I will lay my foundation in the months of Febuary and March. If you fight earlier than that, you simply back up your foundation months. And remember this, after the foundation work is completed, you never touch your stags again only to put them through the "FIGHT TRAINING SCHEDULE." Even as late as the end of June, stags scratching in straw in your runs will be in pefrect condtion, only they have to be sharpened up with the "FIGHT TRAINING SCHEDULE."
I assume that almost everyone has their favorite food for chickens, so I will not cover any feeding instructions here, except to say that I feed my stags a very high quality pigeon feed. I would also like to mention here, that I am talking about people who like myself raise only 15 or so stags a year, as far as this method is concerned. I don't think it would work for those people who raise a lot and have them on walks, etc. I have a cock house with 15 stalls in it, and when I lock my stags up in October or November, they don't get into their outside runs again until March sometime. The exception to this is if we have a nice week during the winter, or if I know that it is going to be a nice day, I will put them out in their runs. So you can see that I am always in close contact with my stags, and I know everyone of them by heart. I also try to raise only 10 stags a year. I figure this is enough, and if they are pretty good fowl they will win a lot more than ten fights. Last year I only raised 5 stags, and these 5 won 17 fights. And in these 17 fights I won first and split first, in two derbies. I don't mention this to brag on my fowl, only to point up that you don't need a lot of stags, if they are good ones, and are in proper condition. You know, I have to laugh when someone tells me of some big time cocker who is getting ready for a big derby or main, and he will gather together 80 or so stags off their walks, and then cull them down to 20 to get enough to fight. If a man has a strain of fowl that only produces one fourth good enough to fight, I don't think he has much at all. Well, that is another story, an we won't go into that here.
Here is the "FOUNDATION METHOD" as I use it, and if it can benefit one person, I will feel that my efforts have not been in vain.
The following schedule is based on an eight week period. I am using the months February and March, although eight weeks doesn't always fall right into these months, I will use them as an example:
FEBRUARY
1st week; 20 runs and flys
2nd week; 25 runs and flys
3rd week; 35 runs and flys
4th week; 45 runs and flys
MARCH
1st week; 60 runs and flys
2nd week; 60 runs and flys
3rd week; 75 runs and flys
4th week; 75 runs and flys
FIGHT TRAINING SCHEDULE: If the fight is on Saturady night, you work the stags Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday twice a day morning and night.
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The "sharpness" that a cock experiences when he comes on point is a natural process that occurs almost daily in cock's life. As the cock becomes gut empty and his moisture level decreases, he will begin to come sharp. To try to force this to happen, using stimulants and drugs, will throw many fowl completely off. The secret to this is to know how to have the fowl come sharp when you want them to, then to hold them at or close to this level of sharpness for the duration of the derby. Sounds complicated but it really isn't.
Depending on the amount, make-up, and moisture intake, complete digestion will occur 4 - 72 hours after a cock eats. The softer the food source and the greater the moisture content, the quicker it will digest. The drier the feed, the more heavy husks in the feed (such as whole oats or whole sunflower seeds), and the less moisture a cock is given, the longer it will ake him to digest the food, thus the longer it will take him to come sharp. Moisture is needed for digestion. Moisture can either be given in the form of drinking water or in the moisture content of the feed. With the misunderstandings in so many keeps, many cockers will take the water from the fowl 3 days before fight day, then wonder why the fowl aren't passing their feed. THEY ARE CONSTIPATED and can't pass the feed. I feed a moist feed the last 3 days of the keep and reduce the amount each day until fight day. In weather less than 75 degrees, I use a mix of 1 cup of cracked corn, 2 bananas, 1 apple, 4 heaping tablespoons of brown sugar and 4 heaping tablespoons of cinnamon. If it has been dry, I soak the corn overnight in water. In weather hotter than 80 degrees, I use instant brown rice, instant white rice, and instant oatmeal in place of the corn. Bring to a boil 3 cups of water and 3 cups of condensed milk. Pour this over the uncooked grains and allow it to soak up all the moisture. Allow to cool then keep in the refrigerator when not being used. Add 4 bananas, 2 apples, 4 heaping tablespoons of brown sugar and 4 heaping tablespoons of cinnamon to this mix before feeding it to the cocks. With this feed mix, the fowl will completely pass it within 12 hours of feeding, if they aren't traveled far.
To keep fowl at a level of sharpness requires moisture, and sugars. This is why I use banana. It is almost all moisture, is full of simple sugars and potassium and will keep the bile in the digestive system from souring and making the cock go "over". I cut banana in 1/2 inch thick slicesm then divide each slice into 3 pieces. Once the cock comes sharp, I drop him out every 30 minutes. I also feed him the 1/3 of a 1/2 inch thick slice of banana every hour to keep him sharp. It works wonderful and there is no side effects that you WILL get from the other stimulants on the market. It is all natural and will not effect your fowl's ability. The brown sugar provides a quick reserve energy source, the cinnamon is the best blood clotting agent I've ever found, and the potassium in the banana will help prevent fatigue cramps during battle.
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Pre-Keep
There are as many different methods to do this as there are people doing it. This is mine, of course a few minor details (secrets of feed contents, ECT) are left out but I assure you everything I use is all natural. Contrary to popular belief no drugs or steroids are used. No hormones other than those naturally produced by the subject fowl and only the best feed water and care I can provide.
21 months ago I set eggs in hopes of hatching a number of fowl by which to continue the lines I have chosen to keep, a variety based on their performance and my preferences. They hatched, grew, were culled thru, well cared for and have survived mother nature's wrath under my watchful eye and the protections provided by "Blossom" my gentle giant guardian Great Pyrenees dog.
We started this past weekend by first checking 24 individuals for conformation, health and disposition. 4 were set aside for being too fat, 1 was removed for being an uncontrollable man fighter. He was a well bred rooster but just seemed to hate everything that moved. (He was sent to a farm where he will be allowed to free range with some good hens. ) 3 were set aside for being too thin thus leaving 16 Bullstags to be sparred and checked for mental maturity as well a athletic ability. Each was identified by his own band # and weighed. They were allowed 4 hours rest in a darkened holding pen and were then we matched them by the closest weights without putting brothers against each other, heeled them with soft rubber sparring muffs and pitted them 3 times each while evaluating each bird for skill and desire, aggression and accuracy, speed and power. 7 were selected to begin the "Prekeep". 7 tie cords ( 6' long swivel cords with a barrel for housing) were set aside, as well as 7 fly pens ( 4' X 8', 8' tall stall in the barn with fresh tilled soil and straw on the floor) and 7 4' X 4' , 4' tall wire outside pens with a roof in preparations for the keep. (conditioning period).
The 7 band #'s were recorded and weights were confirmed and recorded on the daily log that will be kept on each bird. The 7 roosters were each treated for internal and external parasites, each were given an injection of respiratory specific antibiotics, the first of three and placed in the tight pens (small darkened holding pen) for a rest and cool out period then placed on the tie cords, fed and watered.
Post subject: Day 2
This may get boring from time to time but you should follow each step to understand and appreciate all that we do.
Bring all 7 in from the cords, one at a time. Rub each one down and fly to the table (The table is a padded work out station on which the roosters are given aerobic style work outs). Give a bite out of an orange and the 2nd of 3 injections of tylan 50 (antibiotic). Place in tight pens and cup feed 3 oz of moistened vitamin enriched feed. Allow 1 hour to eat and rest & move to the fly pens and place water cups at roost poles, 6 feet up. Close 2 pullets up in barn for all to see and chase.
Post subject: Day 3
Bring the 7 cocks from the fly pens back into the cock house, one at a time. massage each bird, breast - thigh - back - legs. This helps them to calm down and trust me more so not to work against me. The third of three injections of tylan 50 (antibiotic) is given and each is inspected for signs of health and parasites. Each bird is place in his tight pen and cup fed 3 oz of feed each as before. They are given 1 hour to feed and rest and then are one at a time taken from the tight pens and stroked (firm rubbing on the breast) 3 times b-4 being flirted (flown from a short distance with a flick and upward motion so to tilt him forward and require him to correct upright b-4 landing) to the table, Give a bite of an orange or apple, catch, flirt again, to the climb board ( a horizontal padded board, provides an exercise surface on an incline and causes the rooster to utilize wing and breast muscle more) catch and flirt to the table for a final time. Let him relax catch and return to the cords for the next day.
Burrrrrr its cold. After cording I bonus each cock 10 grains of corn to help with the cold night.
Note. Every cock gets fresh water every day. If their bowl is full I remove it, dump it and refill with fresh, this is a must.
Post subject: Day 4
Bring all 7 in from the cords, rub them down as before and put them in the tight pens. Once all are in, one by one, flirt to the table, give a bite of orange, toss to the climb board, (do not pull on their tail), lightly place your hand on their back and press down gently near the tail and let him walk & pump his wings. You can also lightly pull at their feet for the same result. After a few days they learn to use the board and all you must do is take them down from the top. Flirt to the table again give a raisin or bite of banana, one more flirt, let him stretch, light rub down and back in the tight pen. Feed 3 oz of feed and give 1 hour to eat and cool out.
Now is the time to add weight to any fowl that may not be where you want them. I keep my fowl close to show weight and sometimes add a few ounces during the prekeep and take it down during the keep. You can do this by adding whole corn and cat food to their feed. It is easy to add a few ounces, just be sure its converted to muscle rather than gut fat. Never adjust weight down at this stage, if he is a little over it will work out, if he is a lot over he shouldn't be here.
By now they should be more calm in your hands and willing to cooperate more. But they will be getting excited about getting to the table for that orange or raisin treat and generally should already be feeling a little harder, more intense and much more familiar to you. You should know each rooster by the way he feels in your hands.
once they have finished the feed and cool out period we move them to the fly pens with fresh water (soon to be ice) and bonus them 10 grains of corn and put the pullets back in the barn.
During the week I adjust the feed a little each day from my daily feed. I add popcorn, barley, and rice to increase the carbs in the feed and shift up to 18 % protein level from 16%. I use Oranges, bananas, apples and raisins throughout the keep as treats, bonuses and enticers so I do not add them to my feed.
Post subject: Day 5
Not much different today. From the flypens, massage then to the table, bite of orange, flirt three times and fly to the climb board, rub a little more and place in tight pens for feed and rest. After 1 hour take to cords and freshen water.
Weather man calls for sleet, snow, and worse tonight. About bed time return to the yard to put all cocks inside their barrels. If you don't and a good coating of ice lays down, you will find your cocks on the ground in the am but their tails will still be in the ice up on top of the barrel. If your cocks are in good health and are coming along as they should they will have a "raspberry" under their eye. A raspberry is simply the area just below the eye as it becomes full it swells and reddens slightly.
Post subject: Days 6 and 7
As before, bring into the cockhouse, fly to table, bite orange, flirt forward and backward 3 times each, toss to climb board and tight pen, cup feed. By now they should be fully on your keep feed and adapted to it. End of day 7 return cocks to the fly pens and water.
* Get up early on day 8 and put in tight pens, cover for darkness B-4 8 AM
Post subject: Day 8
7:30 AM place cocks in tightpens and cover front so to darken and allow them to rest until noon, place in pen on floor large enough for the cocks to stretch and wake up. Give them I dip of water and weigh them. Record weights next to the weights you took when you first selected them. Pay attention to these and the differences in them. By knowing which cock should gain and which cock should stay steady you can see how they are responding to the treatment, feed, handling and rotation. You can adjust certain cocks feed to compensate and you may have to throw one or two out if they reflect a great weight loss.
After they are weighed they are matched as closely as possible by weight, the soft rubber Muffs (gloves) are placed over their spurs and they are allowed 3 buckles (when to embattled cocks meet they 1st break, fly upward off the ground, and then buckle, attack with wings and feet almost simultaneous) From these buckles you are allowed to evaluate each individuals performance and compare it to the first time they were spared.
After the sparring, the cocks are rotated to the cords, given fresh water and fed on the cords.
For the record my fowl
1. lost 2 oz
2 gained 2 oz
1 gained 1 oz
3 stayed the same
None were thrown out and they are all coming along nicely as I had hoped and each as I have wanted them to.
Post subject: Day 9
Bring them in and place in the tight pens. One at a time, rub down, fly to table, bite the orange, flirt forward and backward 3 times each, fly to the climb board and lightly pull at his footing to make him learn to use the board. Take him down, stand on the table, lift and roll onto his side, being careful not to damage the tail lay the cock flat on his back and allow him to get up on his own. return to tightpens and feed vitamin enriched, moistened keep feed, adjust volume based on weights you got yesterday. After 1 hour place in fly pens and give fresh water.
Tomorrow is day 10. If you remember we wormed on the first day, most wormers will kill the live parasite but not the egg. So we will worm again tomorrow and dust for external parasites so that we know our fowl are pest free. We will also prepare a solution of 1 small bottle of oil of sassafras and 1 tub (large) of Vaseline to apply to the roosters head and knees to keep external parasites away during the keep. This will be applied on day 1 of the keep. We are still in the 14 day prekeep.
Post subject: Day 10 and more
Day 10 we move the cocks from the fly pens to the tightpens and rub each down, give worm medicine and dust for mites. Place them out on cords unfed. 1 hour later feed 1 ½ oz rice cooked with raisins per cock.
Day 11 and 12
Continue rotation to tight pen, massage, flirts then out again.
Day 13 Bring the cocks in rub down, table, check cocks closely for swollen joints, sore muscles, fever or respiratory sounds or smells. Table and flirt, fly / climb board and back to the tight pens for moistened vitamin enriched feed and then to the fly pens. Take their water away and lights out.
Day 14 8:00 am tight pen, 1 dip of water and black out. Noon tight pen, 1 bite of egg white and black out. 2 pm drop out allow to stretch and back to tight pens to black out.
While you wait, put grass hay or corn shucks or wheat straw hay in your fly pens, add a pullet and a little scratch.
4:00 pm drop out (to drop out is to place in a small holding pen large enough to allow the rooster to stretch and move and wake. He will also take this opportunity to "dump" his droppings and begin to clean his bowel. After they dump, weigh, record the weights for comparison and match weights for sparring. While sparring watch closely to see how each cock uses his feet to attack his opponent, (where he strikes at and how often) watch for bad traits like ducking or "giving a free shot" letting the other rooster hit him with out moving, sidestepping or counter attacking at the same time. If every action causes a reaction, you want to have the action and let the reaction be the other guy. You want your rooster pushing the action, forcing the opponent to react and possibly make a mistake. You also want him to place his feet under the other cocks wings or on his back as often as possible. Watch closely and look for mistakes or bad habits that will be bad in competition and likely cause a loss. If such problems arise, remove that bird from the program now, You are about to start the keep period where you prepare your fowl physically for the competition. You want the best candidates you have to start with and they should be in excellent health and body. The "prekeep has been about getting them there and getting them accustom to your daily handling without them getting mad and attacking you. So far this show has been excellent, the only time they have bitten me is when I hang an empty feed cup on the tight pen and none have hit me. They are anxious to get to the table and seem to enjoy the handling and massages. They all cluck and "talk" throughout the process and cut their wings and dance to me on the table. A very nice show of young cocks. I hope the female company doesn't change them too much.
After the sparring return them to the tight pens for a cool out period and make notes. One of the cocks was a bit sluggish and ducked the other cock twice, this cock is rejected from the keep but is kept for a punch cock (a cock other than one in the keep used to hand spar the other cocks with. Hand sparring is getting your cocks to break of the score line and fly up to meet the other cock without actual combat taking place.) Once the cocks cool out and settle down, cup feed and then take to the fly pens with the fresh pullets and the hay. Scatter a small amount of corn chops or scratch in the straw and give them 2 hours before lights out.
The work is about to start Next will be the keep Day 1.
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The Keep
Day 1
One at a time bring the cocks into the cockhouse, massage as follows. Breast, 15 strokes front to rear open handed, then back, with fingers, 5 repetitions of gently rubbing back muscles, thighs, gently rubbing downward into the legs 15 times. The roosters usually enjoy this and relax very quickly after they get used to it. Be cautious not to break up their feathers. After the massage, fly to the table and offer a bite of orange and begin the work out. Normally you never work a rooster beyond the point where his mouth comes open to aid in breathing. The workout must be aerobic in style to be effective (fast paced). After the prekeep I use I have no trouble getting the following #'s out of the roosters with out them being over worked.
Forward flirts 15
Reverse flirts 15
side steps 5
(A side step is simply that, place your hand on his right wing and gently cause him to walk sideways to the left 2 steps, then trade hands and move to the right 2 steps for a 1 count.) Some say this is useless others say it binds the muscles, my grand father always believed it worked muscle that otherwise wouldn't and taught them to step sideways more fluently than they normally would and helps with their balance also.
Flys on the climb board 5
Get off back 2
Bite of orange
fly to table
wash their feet and legs with water and witch hazel, apply the Vaseline with oil of sassafrases to their knees and feet lightly. wash their head with fresh water and lightly apply the vaseline.
Place in the tight pens and allow to cool out.
Feed
1 hour
take to the fly pens with the hens but place in different stalls than before.
Be patient, they will not go to bed easily tonight, when they do, lights out
Day 2
6:00 AM turn on lights in the barn and every day they are in the barn from now till the end of the keep. Cloudy days will make it dark in the barn and they will be lazy on a dark day.
6:00 PM Repeat Day 1
Bring in
Massage
Fly to table, offer orange
15 forward flirts
15 reverse flirts
5 Flies on the climb board side steps (a 5 count)
get off back 2 times
Fly to table
offer orange
tight pen, cool out
feed
take to the cords
Remember, fresh water daily if its froze, replace it, if it stays froze, moisten the feed.
I use cooked rice in my keep with my regular keep feed and often add yogurt, eggwhites, soaked oats or unsweetened fruit juice so my feed is always wet in the keep.
Keep day 3
Bring in, fly to the table, massage
5 flys to the table fro 8 feet away
15 forward flirts
15 reverse flirts
5 - 2 counts of side steps
5 flys on the climb board
get off back 2 times
repeat massage
go thru all 6 then in the same order
remove each and handspar for 5 attempted buckles
cool out
feed
put back out to fly pens
always put them in a pen other than the one they were in last.
At lights out throw a tablespoon of cornchops into the hay for them to scratch after tomorrow.
By now your roosters should act, look and feel like different birds. They should be fuller breasted, more firmly muscled, obviously stronger with a clear pep to them. They should have a good raspberry under their eye and their heads should snap with each movement. They should be more cocky and should cluck and talk to you throughout the workout and feeding. If they are not here, you should take a hard look and consider putting them out for two weeks and starting with fresh roosters. You should also have singled out any lazy roosters by now, you must pay extra attention to them as they will often work you harder than they work and can be disappointing in the end if they have not developed the stamina needed and the burst of action required.
Keep day 4 and beyond
Day 4 thru 6
Each day bring the cocks into the cock house tightpens and then begin the work. Each day work each rooster in groups of 10, (10 forward flirts, 10 reverse flirts, 10 runs, 10 flys) and work until his mouth pops open to inhale.(record this count each day to chart and gauge each roosters progress. Walk him down on the table, massage & cool out in the tight pens. Feed and continue rotation in sequence.
Keep Day 7
8:00 AM Bring cocks in to cockhouse and place in tightpens and "black out" which forces them to rest. At 12:00 drop out, peck up with a small amount of egg whites and corn chops, give 1 dip of water and black out again. 2:00 PM drop out & black out and again at 4:00 PM and 5:00. At 6:00 PM wake them, weigh them and match against near equal cocks from the yard and spar them for 3 good buckles, paying close attention to each cock for style, accuracy, aggression and of course mistakes or bad habits.
After sparring, cool out in the tight pens and feed allowing all the water they want and place in the fly pens with the hens.
Keep day 8 thru 14
Day 8 thru 13 is a continuance of day 6.
I work the cocks till their mouth pops open, count and record the flirts, flys and runs, then massage, cool out and feed. Keeping up with the rotation along the way and replacing any hen that doesn't make the cocks work for it or stays on the roost pole all day. On day 10 we hand spar for three attempted buckles before the work out. this will lower your work out count for this day. As of day 13 we have our cocks working as follows;
15 flys to the table from 8 feet
20 forward flirts
20 reverse flirts
10 runs
10 flys to the climb board
4 times to get off back
and 55 bonus flys, flirts etc.
Remember, this work out is to be at an aerobic pace to build the wind and stamina
I had 1 cock refuse to work and un able to hold up to the pace of the other 5 and have thrown him out. This is not good as I am 2 weeks away and am down to 5 birds for a planned 4 cock show. Too few cocks to show and I am out and have to start over again.
Day 14
Noon Black out and rest until 4:00 PM, wake drop out, weigh, match up and spar for 3 buckles, give 1 dip of water and rest until 6:00 PM. Then put thru an abbreviated work out, cool out, feed and continue rotation. This is the last true spar so pay close attention to each rooster and what they do, If you cant see where they are putting their feet, video tape the session and then replay until you see it.
By now the cocks should be difficult to hold in your hands when you take them out of the tight pens, they want to get to the table for that morsel of food and some roosters will actually enjoy the work.
Notice this program was designed years ago and was intended for gaff fowl, however it should not be used on roundhead or oriental fowl as you will work their breast off and ruin them.
You should also notice the "raspberry" and the "popping" of the head being more noticeable and the roosters being much more of a rooster than before.
Day 15
Use a little patience tonight, try to equalize the work count on your cocks or at least get them to a manageable level / count Just above the last count you got. You can achieve this by slowing the pace a little or allowing 20 second rests between the exercises. This show is up to the following count. 15 flys to the table
20 forward flirts
20 reverse flirts
10 runs
10 flies to the climb board
5 times to get off back
60 Bonus flies, flirts and runs
This is a satisfactory count for a good workout but don't forget the massage afterward.
Work the roosters every day to this count and speed up the pace a little each day thru day 22. Continue the rotation as before, continue the feed as before but on day 21 remove the hens from the flypens and allow no hens on the cord yard. Place 2 or 3 young fresh hens in the barn hall where the cocks can see them but not get to them for the duration of the keep.
Day 18
Continue the same routine except b-4 you go to the work table, use the "punch cock" (sparring partner) and hand spar each cock for 4 buckles.
then return to the tight pens. Work the base work out and return to the tight pen with a massage, give a dip of water, and then using the same sequence give them their bonus work, return to the tight pens, cool out and feed. You should consider beginning any feed adjustments now so not to shock their system with a sudden change in the last days. I begin to reduce the boiled egg whites and increase the fruit content slowly exchanging one for the other but I leave the rice in and will increase it later.
Day 23 and beyond
Day 23 with a show on day 28 you have to hold your cocks at this peak of condition while allowing them to rest a little and be fresh with an explosion of energy at the show. This is our method. Reduce the work out totals by a full 1/4 on this day and continue rotation. You should begin adjusting your feed down also. Remove the sunflower seed and whole oats due to the hulls and husks, for the next feed. Replace this lost volume with a slight increase in cracked corn, wheat and rice, cracked corn works fine.
24 Again reduce the work count by 1/4 continue rotation and feed the adjusted feed. Do not forget the fruit (banana, apple) bonuses at the table and on rotation if you do not mix it in your feed. Take the pullets out of the barn this night. I feed 1 time per day thru this day but will feed 2 times per day starting tomorrow morning just use half the amount.
25 Finally reduce the work by 1/4 again. You should be down to only 25% of you peak work. Feed adjusted feed and rotate to the fly pens for the evening and night. There are hundreds of recipes for what you should feed your cocks from now until Showtime, it is important you find what works for your cocks on your ground, in your hands. I simply continue to adjust mine to more scratch without sunflower seeds and no oats and begin to trade out my keep feed for my finish and "point feed" a little each feeding. At this point I am feeding 25% keep feed minus oats and sunflower, 25% cooked rice, 25 % boiled egg whites and 25% cracked corn. plus I still am giving bites of apple and banana from time to time.
Day 26 7:00 AM your cocks have been up and popping since 4:00AM, that's enough. No work. Carry them to the table bite of apple, couple of strokes as you inspect him for the show. Feed morning feed. This is the time if you don't like what you see or if he don't feel like he is on top of the world and act like it, consider starting again. There is simply no excuse for entering a well deserving, well bred, capable gamecock in an event unless he stands a very good chance of winning. At this point we have our 5 cocks, 4 of which we are certain about, the fifth, an alternate, just in case someone gets sick, the fifth must be an equal because he may be needed to support the team, to fill in for someone who didn't travel well. Today we know who is who. We place each in black out at 8 AM, turn off the lights, unplug the radio, close the door and cover the windows. You want your fowl to rest. Now is the time you begin to adjust the water in the cocks body. A cock that is very moist (a high moisture level in his system) will cut well but will not be able to withstand severe blows without losing moisture quickly and essentially going into shock causing you to not place in the show. On the other hand a cock that is too dry can take the blows much better but cannot deliver similar blows to his opponent, kinda like tight or cramped muscles due to dehydration. The factors are many in moisture control. Is it raining?, is the wind blowing? is it cold & dry or hot and moist?. You adjust the moisture up by simply allowing a bite of banana, boiled egg white or an extra dip of water depending on the severity of the conditions and what works for you, you adjust the moisture down by not allowing a dip of water or feeding a thumb nail sized piece of dry toast or 3 to 4 pieces of corn chops or some say a dip of unsweetened orange juice. Don't worry about getting it right today, just start adjusting. the weather and other factors will change it tomorrow, besides, you still have tomorrow and the night after.
12 Noon Drop each cock out. After he drops flirt him to the table allow a peck of fruit or egg white, allow him 5 min. to stretch and look around then put back into black out. I use a half of a cedar post in my tight pens when blacking out. The cocks will rest better setting on this "Natural roost". Repeat the drop and stretch at 4 PM and again at 8 PM. 8 PM Feed the evening feed that you have continued to adjust which should now be corn chops, egg whites and cooked rice.
Your cocks need a good ride to the show with out hard bumps and a lot of wind so consider that in your preparations.
27 and "the DAY"
Before 27 begins you should already know your schedule for the next 24 hours. Planning your feeds, adjusting your moisture, timing your trip to the show.
You must time your feed this day and adjust volume possibly so to make certain your cocks are clean an the point is coming on just before Showtime.
To calculate your last feed time take weigh in time minus 30 min.
(10 AM) - ½ = (9:30)
minus travel time, 1 hour for me.
(9:30 - 1= 8:30)
minus 12 hours clean out time.
(8:30 - 12 = 8:30 PM the day before show day.)
This is your last feed time b-4 the show.
And so 27 begins. At 6 AM drop your cocks out and allow them to stretch & drop, flirt them to the table 1 time, give a brief rubdown, wash their feet and head. Weigh them and adjust moisture if needed. Feed ½ or morning feed with apples and bananas, black out and do not bother them until noon, drop them out, allow them to stretch and put back in black out.
8PM drop each cock and allow to stretch, wash their feet and head, apply a little Vaseline to their head and knees, feed each cock 1/4 regular feed and black out.
Got company, Ill finish show day in a little while.
claret
Show time
I almost forgot, 24 hours b-4 show time, take the water away, (if its hot and dry wait until 18 hours b-4 Showtime). If you are ready then your vehicle will have been gassed, your supplies will have been checked, your gaffs sharp, a padded ride readied for your fowl, your peck feed and banana and apple and bottle of water will be in the truck, you will have eaten breakfast and packed lunch by 5:AM. Now drop your cocks out, allow them to stretch & drop, confirm their moisture. but do not peck. If it is hot and dry you may allow 1 dip of water. Load your cocks, and leave with enough time to get to the show at least 2 hours b-4 weigh in. I like the rule of 1 hour travel equals 2 hours of rest.
Upon arrival drop out the cocks on tar paper and allow them to drop and stretch for a moment and put them back into the box. If you must adjust their water or peck them do it at this moment. Black out and rest for 30 min. Drop out and check moisture again, as soon as they drop put them back in black out.
You are looking for a dropping about the size of your nail on your thumb (dime sized) and about the consistency of dough. The early droppings should be about the consistency of an egg yolk. Drop the cocks every 20 min. until you get this small dough ball. It will often have a white cap on it. Record the time you get this drop. Then 1 hour (VERY IMPORTANT) after this drop if the cock has not been shown give ½ slice of 1/4 inch thick piece of banana, do this every hour on the hour until the cock is shown. **Two hours after dime drop you may want to allow a dip of water or a peck of egg white, again about 6 hours after dime drop. (this should be adjusted depending on the weather.)
When you are called up waste no time getting to your cocks, I stay with mine. Drop your cock out while you are getting ready to heal and allow him to see the hen you brought but not to chase her. Heel your cock and drop back down, allow him to walk in his heels for a min. and then catch him and bill him up with the punch cock just b-4 you go into the pit.
For those who wish to use B-12 injectable it is recommended to be used in ½ cc dose injected into the breast 72 and 36 hours before time for the show to start.
That's it folks.
If you choose to try this I wish you good luck, remember to adjust to your fowl, rather than adjust them to you. Keep em healthy.